'VEG: simple, stylish and seasonal vegetarian cooking' by Catherine Mason

Pumpkin risotto with saffron

Taken from "VEG: simple, stylish and seasonal vegetarian cooking" by Catherine Mason (Pauntley Press, 2001, ISBN: 0-9534879-2-8, price £12.99)
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This warming dish of fragrant, saffron-infused rice, studded with sweet orange chunks of pumpkin, is a delight to the senses. The texture is creamy and soothing; the colour like a burst of sunshine on the plate – just the thing for a dismal autumn or winter day.

Saffron, the dried stamens of the saffron crocus, is the world's costliest spice, but a little goes a long way, and it adds immeasurably to the quality of this, and any other dish in which it plays a part. There is no adequate substitute. If you're going to the expense, buy it whole rather than powdered. After opening, store it in an airtight container in the fridge.

This dish can be made with any orange-fleshed winter pumpkin or squash. Given the choice I make it with butternut squash, which has a good flavour, comes in a manageable size, and is easy to peel.

a generous pinch of saffron strands
700 g (1 lb 9 oz) prepared pumpkin (buy about a third extra to allow for wastage)
30 g (1 oz) butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
170 g (6 oz) risotto rice
360 ml (12 fl oz) dry white wine
about 600 ml (21 fl oz) vegetable stock, not too strongly flavoured
2 heaped tablespoons finely chopped parsley
grated fresh Parmesan cheese to serve
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 or 3 tablespoons of cream or crème fraîche (optional)
a few toasted pumpkin seeds for garnishing (optional)

Put the saffron threads to soak in about 2 tablespoons of boiling water for at least 10 minutes.

Prepare the pumpkin or squash by first cutting it in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and fibres with a spoon, and discard them. Now place the pumpkin halves cut-side down and cut into slices 1 cm (½ inch) wide. Put each slice flat (cut side) on the chopping board and slice off the skin with a few swift downward strokes of the knife. Cut the pumpkin flesh into approximately 1 cm (½ inch) dice. Don't make them too much bigger than this, as they need to be cooked through in the same time as it takes for the rice to get tender.

Heat the vegetable stock in a pan on the back of the stove and keep it at simmering point.

Heat the butter and olive oil together in a large shallow pan; when the butter is foaming throw in the pumpkin. Shake the pan from time to time, to prevent sticking. The heat should be quite high, as the aim is to brown the pumpkin slightly before the main part of the cooking takes place. This should only take 2-3 minutes. The butter will caramelise slightly, which adds to the flavour.

Turn the pieces over gently, and when they are slightly coloured, reduce the heat a little and add the onions. After a few minutes more, add the rice, followed by the wine. Allow it to bubble and reduce for a few minutes. Add the saffron and its soaking liquid.

Add a ladle of simmering vegetable stock and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is more or less absorbed. Keep adding more stock intermittently and continue cooking the risotto, stirring, until the rice is tender and virtually all the liquid is absorbed – about 20 minutes from the time the liquid is first added. Towards the end of the cooking period you will need to stir constantly.

Just before serving, stir in the chopped parsley and a handful of grated Parmesan cheese. Add plenty of black pepper, taste and add extra salt if necessary – if the vegetable stock was salty you may not need any. Top each portion with a dollop of cream or crème fraîche. Garnish with a few toasted pumpkin seeds if you have any, and serve with extra Parmesan.

Pumpkin risotto with saffron

SERVES 3-4